GAMES FOR DOGS TO PLAY

Play in our dogs pleases the eye and warms the soul, but why do they do it?  It would seem to be an unusual example of animals doing something for no substantial outcome.

Play is a special feature of animals that live in complex and organized groups – like man himself; like the wolf and its derivative the dog.  This gives a clue to the function of play: the development of language, and the exchange of signals with others in the group.  Play for dogs is a high-speed emotional activity that confuses threat with appeasement, sexual advance with rejection, food-begging with object procurement and so on.

Play is often so fast that slow-speed video replay is an essential tool for effective observation.  This has shown that skills needed for hunting, social competition for rank order, courtship, sexual success and care of young all have their roots in play.

PLAY THROUGH THE YEARS 

Puppies begin to play when they are about three weeks old, usually in badly coordinated mouthing of the heads of littermates.  By four weeks, definite play postures involving the whole body present the signal ‘What now follows is play and should not be taken too seriously’.

With sharp milk teeth, nips from a month-old puppy can be quite painful, so the protective wince and snap from the mother or other ‘victim’ of rough play soon teaches the skill of bite-inhibition.  Puppies learn the consequences of their biting, and to maintain gentle play owners should not roughhouse whilst wearing gloves.  They need the feedback of pained yelps to educate inhibited mouthing.

By five weeks, play between puppies can become quite aggressive and more precise as the central nervous system matures.  Definite adult facial expressions take over from the more rounded mask of the puppy.  Sex appears on the scene by six weeks of age, especially amongst male puppies.  The importance of this learning phase has been demonstrated experimentally: lonely puppies deprived of the opportunity to play make poor mates as adults.

The duration of play amongst puppies declines noticeably after 10 weeks of age; but as any dog owner knows, play continues for life and into the twilight years.  It is performed whenever inclination coincides with invitation.

No scientific data are available or whether or not some breeds of dogs are more playful than others, but it is my experience that heaver-bodied breeds like Mastiffs, St. Bernards or Labradors are less skittish than a tireless Terrier or silly Setter.  These differences can be accounted for by the variations in body weight.  Slim a Labrador or fatten a Setter, and play will increase or decrease accordingly.

Adult male dogs tend to be more playful than bitches, again possibly explained by the higher fat levels on the female form.  A slim, healthy bitch can be as playful as any dog, though the type of play will differ between the sexes.  A typical sequence of play for dogs of either sex might begin with a bow, followed by a growling bark, an exaggerated approach, veering to one side, a chase, mouth-muzzle biting, rolling-wrestling, more chasing, more wrestling, knocking over, standing astride, rearing, pushing and pulling.  Pure joy!

GAMES YOU CAN PLAY 

Dogs can be broadly classified as either plodders or pushers, tendencies which can be guided by the owner, so don’t let your dog be bored and boring: start playing!

HIDE AND SEEK 

This game has important survival implications for wild dogs: separation from the pack means loss of protection and possibly being eaten.  All the senses are stretched in hide and seek: to smell disturbed earth, crushed grass and body odors; to hear the slightest sound, or see movement.

Amongst dogs the successful find of the hiding partner ends with a pounce or ambush.  Since the reward for finding is in the pounce, human partners of hide and seek games should try to do the same.  Don’t be inhibited.

The game has many variations but start by running behind a tree or wall, then encourage the following.  Make the distance traveled greater, and have someone else hold the canine partner back to give you a headstart.  Later and after six months of age, teach ‘sit’ or ‘down’ and ‘stay’ as a preliminary to the ‘find’ invitation.

The final phase of difficulty in this game is to move in the third dimension: climb a tree or drop into a hole for instance.

OBJECT SEEK AND FIND 

The sense of smell in pet dogs is rarely challenged or worked as much as it is in their wild relatives.  It is easy to teach most dogs the habit of searching or scent-trailing.  Springer Spaniels and Labradors making impressive drug-finds from suitcases at airports are no different from other dogs with enthusiasm and a desire to please their owners.

Returning must always be rewarded by fuss and uninhibited fun.  Take a favorite toy and show the dog that you are placing it under the carpet.  Lift the carpet, drop, lift and so on until the object is seen and grabbed.

Once the idea of an object being available but not visible is established, the sense of smell will be called into action.  Make the ‘hides’ more complex so that the dog can’t see where the object is being placed.

Keep the objects or scents to be found simple or few in number: socks, cheese or a characteristically scented dumbbell for instance.  Specialist trainers use a hollow metal tube punched with holes, through which the search aroma can escape.

As skill and enthusiasm of a dog finding a particular odor improves, one need place less of the substance in the tube.  For instance, a non-smoker could teach his or her dog to find cigarettes, and quite soon a single shred of tobacco leaf should be detected.

Dogs can also be trained to trail after people of animals in true Bloodhound fashion.  Specialist clubs exist where members and their dogs develop their skill of scent-trailing.  It is highly recommended as a healthy, outdoor pursuit, be you the pursuing or the pursued!

RETRIEVE 

The tendency to carry and retrieve objects is to a great extent genetically determined: Golden Retrievers and Spaniels obviously have it, and most Terriers do not.  The tendency to hold objects in the mouth can, however, be encouraged in puppies by pretend efforts to repossess, with a ‘give it to me!’ tone of voice.  Once this holding tendency has formed in the puppy, it can easily be linked to the ‘come’ and ‘drop’ commands.

After initial puppy training, it is very important to insist on the dog returning with the object to you, and not chase after the dog in a catch game.  Stand still, wait and don’t begin to praise until the object is actually in your hands.

A word of caution on the use of sticks as play objects.  They can be quite dangerous by leaving splinters between the teeth or penetrating the gums.  Never throw sticks as dogs can run into them with terrible consequences to the throat.  Rubber rings, large balls and Hessian or canvas dumbbells are safer.  Squeaky toys should be of the latex kind.  They last longer and are safer than vinyl.

TAG 

This game of catch-me-if-you-can comes easily to dogs, and keeps everybody fit.

WATER 

Most dogs will swim if they have to, but many don’t appreciate the potential for buoyant goonery that water offers.  It is all a matter of introducing puppies to water early:  teach them to swim as one does a child, by example.

WORD AND SONG 

The vocal repertoire of dogs is really quite extensive and an observant trainer can encourage a particular type of bark.  Thus, dogs can apparently ‘speak’ on command.  The tendency to howl is particularly strong in some individuals, giving the potential for conducting melodic renditions of favorite songs.

My young Irish Setter Sam varies the pitch and intensity of his howling precisely to follow the human accompanist’s voice and hand position.

SPORT 

The competitive spirit in man is often expressed through our dogs, which may or may not be to their advantage.  However, the sport of agility-trialing is particularly recommended because it is as exhausting for the human as for the dog, and hilarious for spectators.

Unfortunately, some participants of canine agility take it far too seriously and try to complete the obstacle course faster than anyone else.  Thus the dominance of speedy Border Collies in this sport!  Agility trailing between Bassets or Basenjis is just as much fun.

from The Practical Guide to Dog & Puppy Care - Andrew Edney and Roger Mugford