FEEDING AND CARE

Anything worthwhile is worth looking after. The dogs we have in our homes are quite complicated, much more so than lawn mowers or motorcars. Few of us would expect relatively simple pieces of apparatus just to go on working without some attention now and again. Refueling, cleaning and servicing, as well as running repairs, are routine requirements with mechanical things. Dogs, being biological organisms of immense complexity, merit at least as much regular attention.

It is very much better to get into a set routine rather that simply reacting (eventually) to matters when they are obviously going wrong. All dogs need to be fed sensibly, that is ‘refueled’. They must be kept clean by grooming the coat, bathing the dog and attending to the teeth and claws. Regular check-ups, with booster injections to maintain protection against the main killer diseases, are the equivalent of servicing.

FEEDING

Of the fundamental requirements of any companion animal, having proper food supplied ranks with equal importance to giving shelter and health care. Owners who are unable or unwilling to give all these to their animals should not even consider taking on such responsibilities.

Having made the commitment to care for a dog, the rewards are great and much pleasure can be derived from the very act of caring. This is especially so when it comes to feeding, as the great majority of dogs look forward to their mealtimes, which provide them with obvious gratification. The supply of food to an animal which is almost entirely dependent upon its owner helps to forge the bond between both.

The other crucial point about feeding is that it has to be done every day of the dog’s life. As puppies and in old age, several meals may have to be provided each day.

TYPES OF FOOD

Present-day prepared foods from reputable manufacturers make it a relatively simple matter for owners to meet the nutrient needs of their dogs. The dog owners of Europe tend to feed a mixture of canned dog food and a mixer biscuit. In other countries, owners favor more of the foods that are dry or have intermediate moisture contents.

There are advantages with each format and none is the only ‘correct’ method of feeding.

Canned foods are mostly very palatable and nutritious, and are preserved by the use of heat sterilization in a closed, very-durable container. Dry foods are subjected to heat and kept too dry for microorganisms to prosper in them. They suffer mainly from being less palatable, and will go moldy if allowed to get wet.

Semi-moist foods come in between and are also heat treated, but preservation is by means of chemicals which prevent the microorganisms from making use of what moisture there is present.

Dry and semi-moist foods are convenient and can be left down for the dog during the day, whereas canned foods must be eaten within a few minutes or they will dry out.

Mixer biscuits are very robust and are a cheap source of energy.

All reputable manufacturers give plenty of guidance on how to use the foods they provide. They are required to make it clear on each pack whether the food is adequate in itself (a complete food) or is meant to be fed with other foods (a complementary food).

HOW TO USE PREPARED FOODS

There ought to be plenty of information about feeding already printed on the pack of any food from a manufacturer. Most firms also offer background literature for the owner to refer to, and guidance is always available from the local veterinary practice.

Table 2 gives a guide to the types of food and the usual amounts to feed puppies during the first months of their development.

TABLE 2: FEEDING PUPPIES

Birth to three weeks: Puppies rely almost entirely on their mother’s milk. They feed very frequently and sleep much of the rest of the time.

Three weeks to weaning: Puppies begin to take some solid food, either as canned puppy food designed for the purpose, plus milk or a milk-based weaner food. They should be allowed to eat to appetite in between the periods their mother allows them to suckle.

Between eight and ten weeks: Puppies are usually weaned from their mother’s milk soon after they are two months old. Biscuit softened with milk or water can be introduced and the puppies are fed every four hours during a sixteen-hour day. It is at this time that the puppy usually goes to its new home and a new routine is introduced.

Weaning to four months: The meal frequency can be gradually reduced from four to three meals per day in the period between three and four months.

Between four and six months: Depending upon the routine which is to be adopted as an adult and on the rate of the dog’s development, meals can be reduced to two daily.

After six months: Whatever the adult regime is to be (one or two meals a day), this can gradually be established once the dog is sexually mature. The larger the dog the longer this is likely to take. Very large dogs will be well over a year old before they are fully mature.

There is an enormous amount of variation between the nutrient needs of individual dogs. It is not just that a dog working sheep on a farm will have much greater demands than a fireside dog of the same bodyweight and size. But even dogs which look and behave in a very similar way may vary quite a lot as well.

THE RIGHT AMOUNT

It is up to the owner to make the final judgments on the amounts supplied. Table 3 gives an approximate guide for adult dogs of different sixes. Fortunately, it is not difficult to judge if a dog is getting too much or not enough food and to make the adjustments in the amounts fed. The difficult matter is actually getting around to doing it.

To continue under- or over-feeding will inevitably lead to problems of either emaciation and scavenging, or obesity. So the dog’s health is in the hands of the person who feeds it. If that state of health is prejudiced it will certainly threaten the dog’s chances of living a long and happy life.

TABLE 3: APPROXIMATE AMOUNTS TO FEED PUPPIES

Size		Small	Medium	Large

Adult Bodyweight:		4.5-9 kg (10-20 lb)	9-22 kg (20-50 lb)	22 kg (50 lb)

Up to 12 weeks:	c/f	½ - ¾	¾ - 1	1 – 1 ½
	b/m	25-80 g (1-3 oz)	85-140 g (3-5 oz)	100-160 g (4-6 oz)

12-16 weeks:	c/f	½ - ¾	1 – 1 ½	1 ½ - 2
	b/m	55-140 g (2-4 oz)	100-165 g (4-6 oz)	140-250 g (5-9 oz)

16 weeks-1 year:	c/f	½ - ¾	1 – 1 ½	1 ½ - 2
	b/m	85-140 g (3-5 oz)	140-225 g (5-8 oz)	225-335 g (8-12 oz)

c/f = canned puppy food b/m – biscuit/mixer
These amounts are approximate and are meant as a guide. Adjustments can be made on results as there is a great deal of variation between individual dogs.

DIFFERENT STAGES OF LIFE

Different stages of a dog’s life require different feeding strategies.

When a puppy is born it begins to grow very rapidly. If it does not it will not survive. Growth cannot stand still: the puppy will either put on body weight or perish. For the first three weeks or so it is entirely dependent upon its mother for nutrients, and it will continue to take milk, and some food that its mother regurgitates for it, until the process of weaning is complete. This may be between the seventh and twelfth weeks of life, or even later in some larger breeds.

WEANING

As puppies begin to take solid food their needs are at least twice those of a mature dog of the same weight. They have to keep themselves going and grow at the same time. They are bound to need much more per unit bodyweight. They also need to be fed very nourishing, concentrated, easily digestible foods. Even then their stomachs are too small to accommodate enough food for more than a few hours, so they will require meals at very frequent intervals.

Adult dogs vary a great deal also. At one end of the scale a sedentary, fairly lethargic dog does not need very much food just for maintenance, but a bitch rearing a litter is likely to need at least three times as much food as this when she is at the peak of lactation (producing milk for puppies).

For dogs doing vigorous exercise such as racing Greyhounds or working farm dogs, at least twice the maintenance level may be needed. The ultimate requirement is for the sledge dog doing very demanding work in very cold conditions.

Older dogs tend to slow down and need less energy from their food, or they may be lees efficient at digesting and absorbing food. This often means reverting to the frequent meals of puppy hood, with small amounts of nourishing food provided on a ‘little and often’ basis. Certainly many of them have a poorer appreciation of food and adjustments will have to be made accordingly.

GROOMING

All dogs need grooming, and the sooner the routine is established the easier it is to maintain. Some light brushing should start as soon as a new puppy has had a chance to adjust to its new environment. If this is done for frequent, very short spells, it becomes part of the dog’s life and many individuals look forward to the attention they get from their owners.

Grooming must never become a test of the will of dog and owner. A dog that is neglected can become such a trial to de-mat and groom that it may have to be sedated or even fully anaesthetized to complete the task.

A nylon brush, with bristles on one side and metal on the other, is invaluable for regular use. A hound glove, which the owner puts on the hand, is useful for the finishing touches. A metal-toothed comb should deal with most matted areas if there is no delay in clearing them as they form.

Each dog should have some old towels which are for canine use exclusively. At least two clean towels should be kept at hand for when the dog comes in on a wet day, or after an encounter with a puddle or two.

BATHING

Just as young dogs have to get accustomed to grooming, bathing has to be introduced in every dog’s pattern of life. It is not difficult to bathe dogs, no more than it is with small children if the routine is established. Small dogs can usually be bathed in a sink or large washbasin. Larger varieties have to be put into the bath itself or, when the weather is kind, in a tub outside.

Take special care when bathing puppies under six months old, ensuring that they do not take a chill when wet; and in cold weather, dogs of all sizes require this precaution.

Use shampoos that are known to be suitable for dogs. Pet shops and veterinary practices can always provide the right kind. Then it is simply a matter of wetting the coat and applying the shampoo in the same way as any other, taking great care to keep the eyes clear. Rinse out the shampoo, and the dog will be thoroughly washed.

Drying with a hair dryer and a large bath towel is all that is needed to finish off the task. A clean dry towel and a hound glove can be used to finish the job off. A hound glove is a sturdy mitten, made with bristles on the palm side, and is very effective for grooming most dogs.

No dog should be allowed out until completely dry, and everyone should know about the dog’s habit of shaking itself dry in a way which makes everyone else around soaking wet.

Any medicated shampoos must be obtained from the veterinary practice and used under guidance to be quite safe. There is no fixed interval for bath times, as dogs get dirty at different rates, but it is usually obvious when it needs to be done. Once a month during the summer, plus the occasions when the dog gets in a pickle, is about the par rate; and whenever practicable during colder weather.

CLAWS

Dogs have a pad and a claw on the four toes of each leg. The main claws are normally just clear of the ground. Many dogs have additional claws on the inside of the leg. These are called ‘dew’ claws and have very little function as far as most breeds are concerned. They are usually removed (by a vet) very early in the lives of puppies – that is, before the eyes are open, at about ten days.

Some breeds, including the Newfoundland and the Pyrenean Mountain Dog, are allowed to retain them. In these and some other dogs, there are sometimes supernumerary (excess), or double dewclaws.

Overgrown claws are usually quite obvious as they will begin to turn over where they touch the ground. The dewclaws, if retained, may also overgrow and begin to grow into the pad. This quickly results in a painful wound in the leg which will become infected and needs attention without delay.

One of the main problem with overgrown claws is that, in the hairier breeds at least, it is east to miss a hidden claw. For this and other reasons of hygiene, it is best to keep the hair short around the feet.

CUTTING CLAWS

Many owners shy away from the thought of cutting their dog’s claws. If the routine is established from puppy hood, when a small pair of nail scissors is usually enough to take the tips off sharp claws, there should be no difficulty.

The most important factors are that the dog is kept still with the minimum of fuss, and that the sensitive ‘quick’ is avoided, so there is no pain or bleeding. With claws that lack pigment, it is easy to see where the quick is and avoid it, but in many dogs the claw is heavily pigmented and an estimate has to be made.

Very long claws are difficult as the quick tends to grow far down the claw. In such cases, clipping is best left to a vet. Otherwise the rule is to keep on the safe side and take off too little rather than too much.

The guillotine type of clippers, used by vets and breeders, is perfectly east to use, but a substantial pair of ordinary household clippers will suffice for most dogs. The aim is always to restore the claw to the normal position, just clear of the ground.

CHECK-UPS

As vaccination needs to be boosted every year and possibly more frequently in situations where there are increased risks, this provides the basis for a system of regular, routine check-ups. In fact, no vaccine should ever be given to a dog without an examination by a vet, so vaccination boosters automatically entail regular surveillance of the dog’s health, without the need for any additional visits to the surgery

Regular items for the vet’s annual inspection include the dog’s eyes, ears, gums, teeth, skin, body temperature and weight, as well as the functioning of the heart, liver and kidneys. Beyond this, there may be other things that the vet might consider important to monitor in particular cases. The vet should keep careful records, enabling him to compare the findings of each examination with earlier data.

Seeing and checking fit dogs helps the veterinarian, for this means that he does not always see only sick animals. The degree of abnormality of any individual is always easier to judge against what the animal was like when it was well, rather than trying to assess health without any criterion for that individual.

None of this advise means that the owner should not seek professional advise when an emergency arises. Boosters and regular check-ups are quite separate from unforeseen requirements.

INSURANCE

Keeping animals costs money – not a great deal compared with what owners get in return, but the everyday costs of simply maintaining a dog must not be disregarded. You can make an estimate of the day-to-day costs, but this will not cover the bills which inevitably follow accidents or sudden serious illness.

Insurance coverage for such events is now widely available. It is sound, household economic sense to protect against the worst, in the same way that it is foolhardy to leave a dog unprotected by vaccination.

Insuring a dog does not cover for vaccinations, boosters or neutering operations, but it will help avoid the shock of a large bill to cope with when there is already the distress of having a sick animal in the household. At the same time you can insure yourself against the costs of any damage your dog may cause to other people or their animals or property. It is always worth checking carefully to make sure that insurance coverage is actually sufficient for all these risks.

from The Practical Guide to Dog & Puppy Care - Andrew Edney and Roger Mugford